Vitamin C for Mature skin

Vitamin C is the most researched brightening ingredient in skincare, and the most badly explained. Here is what it actually does on skin over forty, and how to use it without wasting your money.

What it does

Vitamin C is an antioxidant. Its main job is to neutralise the free radicals produced by daylight and pollution before they damage collagen. That is a preventative role, and it is the reason it belongs in your morning routine rather than your evening one.

It also interferes with the enzyme that produces excess pigment, which is why it fades the brown patches that tend to appear from your forties onwards. And it supports collagen production, so used consistently it firms as well as brightens.

What it will and will not do

It will even out tone, soften pigmentation, add luminosity and protect against daily environmental damage. Most people notice their complexion looks less tired within four to six weeks.

It will not remove deep pigmentation in a fortnight, replace sunscreen, or plump lines the way a filler does. Anything promising that is overselling.

Which form to look for

Pure L-ascorbic acid is the most studied but also the least stable, and it can sting. Derivatives such as 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate are gentler and far more stable, which matters more in practice than laboratory purity, because a stable serum still works in week eight.

For mature or sensitive skin, a derivative is usually the better choice. It is also why our serum combines several forms rather than relying on one.

How to use it

Apply a few drops to clean skin in the morning, while the skin is still slightly damp, before your moisturiser. Follow with sunscreen. That order matters, because vitamin C works alongside SPF rather than instead of it.

Store it away from direct sunlight. If your serum has turned deep orange or brown, it has oxidised and will not do much. That is normal at the end of a bottle, not a fault.

What it pairs with

Vitamin C and bakuchiol are an excellent pair. Vitamin C in the morning to brighten and protect, bakuchiol in the evening to firm and renew. Unlike vitamin C and retinol, there is no need to keep them apart or alternate nights.

It also layers happily with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide.

Common questions

Will it sting?
A well formulated derivative should not. If it does, you are probably using a high percentage of pure L-ascorbic acid, and dropping to a gentler form usually solves it.

How long until I see a difference?
Four to six weeks for luminosity and tone, longer for pigmentation. Use it daily rather than occasionally, consistency matters far more than concentration.

Can I use it at night instead?
You can, but you lose most of the benefit. Its protective role only helps during daylight hours.

Is a higher percentage better?
No. Above about 20% there is no additional benefit and irritation rises sharply. Formulation quality matters far more than the number on the bottle.